Simplicity in a World of Chaos
Barranco, Lima, Peru
I’ve always imagined living in such a place where on any given afternoon you could hear the jazz music of Kenny Dorham playing in the background with all of the windows open while coffee is waiting for the water to heat up. You could take a walk to the nearest corner for a scoop of hand spun ice-cream and perhaps pick up a loaf freshly baked bread from the morning for less than a couple of dollars.
If you had the time you might walk to the nearby park to sit and contemplate the sculpture of the fountain dispensing water or watch children laughing and eating snacks as they walk home from school, still naive to all of the concerns of the world around them.
On your way home you might pass the restaurant where three brothers have been hand carving and serving sandwiches for the past 85 years. If you are friendly and tell them about Japan they will give you a shot of 12-year old Yamazaki whiskey on a Monday afternoon for free. They take only cash for the $3 sandwiches.
As you make your way you notice the shop door is open for the craftsman who is hand-making shoes and boots. He has also been there for almost a century. The biggest decision of the afternoon would be whether to choose your croissant from the French, German or local Peruvian bakery.
Given the current state of the world in complete disarray and modern culture on a rapidly moving train in the opposite direction, it is hard to imagine such a place still exists. Somehow I have managed to land in such a place in Barranco, Peru.
In Barranco, despite the seeming demise of the surrounding world, even the world of Lima, everything is still colorful. Every day one is surrounded by art in the streets and vivid paintings of all kinds of expression. I have discovered a beauty in lesser developed cultures that have struggled and been oppressed. Beautiful art seems to emerge from the pain and hardship of the people.
Perhaps this is what I see in places like Barranco and Cusco. There is something deeply inspiring about it, especially when one has spent their whole life in a culture driven by technological advancement which seem to be the most valued and rewarded contributions to society.
Although Barranco was once the area of Peru where the wealthy gathered along the beach, most of the daily lives I observe around me still seem very poor and life is a constant struggle for so many. This is most clearly represented by the colorful art and graffiti on most of the buildings. The average annual income in Peru is around $6,000. I am still approached for money every day, though to a lesser degree than in Cusco.
People from other countries often perceive South America to be dangerous and unsafe. Perhaps rightly so. If you listen to what “they” say, Peru ranks among the most unsafe countries to travel, possibly due to its corrupt government for countless decades which leaves people feeling frustrated and helpless. I have never found myself in a dangerous situation in Peru nor have I ever witnessed one. Perhaps I don’t attract them.
A couple of days ago as I was out on my daily walk I witnessed an incident that was quite the opposite and reminded me that the world is not so dangerous. I was making my way home through the park as I noticed an older woman suddenly drop her bag full of limes. It would have been comical but instead I felt more compassion for her as her limes went rolling in every direction. Then, a remarkable thing happened. One man rushed over and began helping her retrieve the escaping limes. Then another man, then another. I was compelled to jump in and help.
As I walked home I thought to myself what a remarkable thing to see in a place that people perceive to be unsafe and dangerous. I am sure there are dangerous things that happen anytime you have 11 million people living together.
In my experience, wherever I go in the world, people seem to be people. There have been kind ones everywhere I have been and I suppose there are dangerous ones, though I haven’t met any. Meanwhile, I enjoy Kenny Dorham playing in the background while the water for my coffee heats up. I leave my windows open. Somehow I feel a sense of peace and calm knowing that the three brothers have been down the street carving sandwiches and the shoemaker has been making shoes for almost a hundred years.
Everything will probably be ok.
Field Notes
“Most people discover at midlife that it was an empty promise, a lie, producing a disgust so deep that they revolt and break loose from the game that society had them playing.”
-Anthony DeMello
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Zen and Ink Journals represents hundreds of hours of writing over the past decade, sometimes from a train in remote China or a coffee shop in Kyoto, a hammock in Costa Rica or a simple cabin on a mountaintop in Boquete, Panama or Ciudad Colón.
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Sounds like you've found a perfect spot, Kirk. Who knew there's an affordable, bohemian, quiet place right on the ocean?
Beautiful piece Kirk. Thank you for continuing to share and giving us a peek into your observations and insights